Thursday, January 6, 2011

Departing the Text

The little town where I grew up has seen its share of tragedy. Those who grew up there know that death always comes in threes, and in the past 10 days or so, that adage held true. A young woman who as raised there to a tragic accident. An elderly woman whose husband owned a favorite hamburger stand in the 50s and 60s. Then brother of longtime friends to another accident. Add to that, damage done by a foot of snow on Christmas night to one of the few thriving entities in town. So we breathed a little. But today, comes another, this time the town optometrist, long loved by all. Dr. E. was once kidnapped by a prisoner from a nearby prison farm who had come to the office to get his eyes checked. When we heard on the transistor radio at school that a doctor in town had been kidnapped, I panicked, because I had been present when some of those prisoners came to my father's office across the street. I don't remember all the details clearly, but I seem to recall that the prisoner forced Dr. E. into the country, where he left Dr. E. shackled to a tree. But first, he took Dr. E's his clothes. Dr. E. lived many, many years to tell that story. 


But no more.


Thinking about this, it seems as though I need to pay tribute to my little town in this space. I did some years ago in the newspaper. In the years since, some of the landmarks I wrote about are gone. The town has grown smaller, sadder, poorer. I suppose everybody who has been raised up by a small town thinks of their world as special. I know those who hail from my town do. And when something bad happens, we are drawn to each other in hopes of saving what's left of it, if only in memory.


Anyway, sometimes things just bear repeating. Thanks, Doug, for the pics.

The Town that Raised Me
Copyright 1999 By Susan Byrum Rountree

“What this place needs is a GAP,” my daughter says as we drive down Main Street toward the house where I grew up. As we pass The Freeze — the landmark of my teenage years where they make the best Pizza Burgers in Eastern North Carolina — I try to see my hometown through her eyes.
There is a battered car wash, old buildings and empty store fronts in need of fresh paint. The Idle Hour Restaurant sign advertising “air conditioning” hasn’t been lit in years, and the Zip Mart stands empty, its front windows boarded shut.
This is Main Street, Scotland Neck, NC, how a passer-through on Hwy. 258 might see it. People who don’t know it and love it as I do might find little here but the remnants of a once-thriving farm town.
But I wish that my daughter could see what I see. Her view, when compared to the mirrored marble sidewalks of her Crabtree Valley Main Street offers little more than peeling paint and crumbling buildings. There are no khaki-clad mannequins artfully backlit, no sidewalk vendors selling the latest styles of silver jewelry, no clusters of teenagers sharing the latest gossip.
But my eyes see home. There is the old Pittman’s Department Store where I bought my first two-piece bathing suit and worked wrapping presents on Christmas Eve. Though it stood empty for a time, in what used to be the men’s department, waitresses now serve the breakfast crowd hot coffee and homemade biscuits.
I can still hear the creak of the Roses floor as we rushed to buy notebooks and pencils for school, recall the smell of the Post Office when I pulled mail from my father’s box, see the audience staring back at me as the curtain opened for my dance recital, feel the touch of newsprint between my fingers as I read my first byline in the Commonwealth.
Scotland Neck. The place with the funny name like the country and the body part. Folks new to North Carolina have never heard of it, but anyone who grew up east of Raleigh most likely knows someone or is kin to someone from  there. And that’s saying a lot for a town of just 2,500 people.
Sure it was the cliché, a mix of Mayberry and Maycomb, with a cast of characters no less colorful than Barney or Boo Radley. There were a couple of old houses we swore were haunted, a handicapped man who used to walk down Main Street on his knees, and every now and then, a murder or two, just to keep our attention.
We picked flowers for our teachers in a neighbor’s back yard without fear of a scolding, saw first-run movies at the Dixie Theater Saturday matinee, crunched on frozen Cokes like popsicles between Sunday School and church. And if your dog wandered the school hallways looking for you, nobody thought a thing about it, though you might be asked to take him home.
It was the kind of home town my city-bred kids will never know. Where everybody knows who you belong to, and where you ought to be. Where they know you had prickly heat, watched you ride your bike down Church Street to school, believed in you until you finally made a name for yourself. And they weren’t the least bit surprised. Folks from Scotland Neck have always done that.
We never had stoplight (still don’t) much less a GAP, but the eastern North Carolina town where I was born, raised a governor and a Congressman, doctors, lawyers and farmers, even a writer or two. Not so long ago, our former mayor was president of the National League of Cities. Imagine that, a sleepy little town in the southeastern end of Halifax County, one of the poorest counties in the state.
The population has remained stable most of my life. When I was 11, the headcount did swell for awhile, when over 11 million blackbirds roosted there. Each evening at dusk “The Birds” converged on the woods behind my house, circling for hours like a stationary tornado, until each one found a spot to perch for the night. They woke us each morning as they headed out, turning the sky black.  Their annual infestation brought some notoriety and national media attention, but it didn’t last. The birds, like many of the young people, found little opportunity in Scotland Neck, so they moved on.
For those of us who’ve left, there has always been a difference between “where do you live?” and “where are you from?” — we are always “from” Scotland Neck. Ask us about “home” and our first thoughts won’t be of the places we live now. Instead, we’ll tell you about the pink Crape Myrtles blooming in the middle of the street in July, or learning that All Have Sin from the Biblical alphabet Miss Lucy Wells taught us all in public school, or of baring our arms for Typhoid shots so we could swim all summer at the murky waters of the Scout Pond. It is a life I would go home to in a second, if it were still there.
Since I moved away from  “The Neck.” as those who grew up there call it, I’ve found fellow natives in the least likely places. Like Atlanta Braves games in the old Fulton County Stadium, sitting 10 rows behind me. Or as the contact for my very first interview as a new reporter in Augusta, Georgia. Be it on Sunday morning, the first time I attended my new Raleigh church 10 years ago, on an escalator at the mall, in the hallway of a Wake County elementary school, no doubt somebody besides me will be from The Neck.
World traveler that he is, my Atlanta-born husband has never  had a similar encounter. I moved to his hometown, and wouldn’t you know it, I soon found a friend from Scotland Neck. In time, Rick began seeing people he knows from Scotland Neck in his travels around the country. But not once has he run across anyone he knew in Atlanta.
I never thought myself disadvantaged because of my small town beginnings. The town limit sign may have separated me from the rest of the world, defined me as being “from” someplace, but it was never a boundary keeping me from discovering what was best in me.
Though I have lived in five cities since I left home 20 years ago, this tiny speck on the map is the one place I’ve always known I belonged. And it is in belonging that we define ourselves, know who we are and where we fit. I could not be who I am if I didn’t hail from this place, couldn’t look at the world the way I do without the growing I did there with the help of all the people who nudged me.
There are dozens of Scotland Necks in this largely forgotten corner of the state, in the “other North Carolina.”  Some are growing, some, like Scotland Neck, could use a coat or two of fresh paint. Not one will ever have a GAP.
But my friends who’ve stayed there are making it a good place, though different, for their children to grow up in. They’ve built a new town hall and a new hospital, and they keep nurturing the Crape Myrtles, their pink blossoms becoming more beautiful with each year.
And as they watch the communities around them fading, they’ve loosened the boundaries that once separated Scotland Neck from the towns nearby, their citizens mingling at work, church and school, in hopes of keeping the sense of community they used to know.
And they always welcome me back, proud of the freckle-faced daughter who likes to see her name in the paper. I hope they know how much credit the town that raised me deserves.



41 comments:

  1. Thank you so much for this Susan. Did you pick the flowers from Martha Neville's jungle?

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  2. Oh, no. We would never have done that! Malone's mother grew some beautiful daffodils just on the side of Martha's hedge.

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  3. Susan you captured it perfectly!!! I cannot wait to send it on to family and friends. I'm sorry my children never knew such freedom. Thanks for making me smile!!!

    Mary Holly

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  4. Well said Susan, evokes the sleepy melancholy summer days of parking my bicycle at the corner to go into the Western Auto and gawk at all the cool bicycles and fishing supplies then take some bottles to the P&P grocery to get money for a mountain dew and a pack of Nabs
    -Doug Weeks

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  5. Thank you Susan. It made me smile but I also found myself choked up with a big lump in my throat. I spent two nights in the Neck this week. Doug's recent pics prompted me to ride around town thinking about who lived where and how it used to be.....thanks for so eloquently putting our thoughts into words!

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  6. @Doug Weeks...I forgot about going to Western Auto to ooh and ah over the bikes....thanks for the memory!

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  7. Well written Susan. Pretty much hits the nail on the head.

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  8. Lovely post, Susan. I enjoyed every word.

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  9. Susan.....AMAZING post!! It's rare that I read something word for word, but I could relate to it which kept me at attention. I was born in Lumberton, raised there for a while and then our family moved to Wilmington. I have almost forgotten what it was like to grow up in a small town, although no where nearly as small as The Neck - where you can STILL park in the middle of the street. I have the privilege of knowing Sharon Braddy who is one of, if not the nicest, most giving and caring individuals I have met. And her Neck accent is something to be cherished. "Ovah theyahhh" "Up the stayuhhhs" "Whayuhh." Not to be demeaning, but it is something you rarely see or hear anymore from Eastern NC and it is precious and timeless. Time can change the scenery physically, but we can all be proud of what and where we came from - a simpler, happier time when the world was less complicated and you truly loved your neighbor as you love yourself. Thanks so much for taking me back to my roots as well as yours.

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  10. Susan. you haven't forgotten your next door neighbor who rescued you when you couldn't get down off that jungle jim.

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  11. And don't forget Kidd's Hardware and Plumbing. We used to save all week to come up with the 77 cents it took to buy the newest "Matchbox Truck"...Susan, you made me cry, but it was a happy cry!

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  12. Thanks y'all. It feels like the blog has gone viral! And Ralph. Who can forget that day? I was four and drew a crowd. I guess thanks to you, also 4 (or maybe you were 5 by then) I am still drawing a crowd from time to time.

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  13. Susan, you can not forget the Dixie Theater either. Spent some wonderful Saturday afternoons there.

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  14. Susan, Thank you! What a great post!
    Beth Bearden Shepard

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  15. That's beautiful, Susan. While I often belittle the offerings my town had for me growing up, I am proud to have grown up there. I haven't been back since my Dad died in '05. And while I know little has changed, that's the way it should be. I know that when I go back, teenagers will still be parked in the middle of the street and it'll bring back memories. I miss the Pizza Burgers and the Dixie and even the birds. I certainly miss Alma Whitaker's BBQ. Tennesse BBQ just isn't the same.

    SN may have not had much to offer when I was there, but it certainly has lots to offer now.

    Hal Stephens

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  16. Hal: I think you were the one I saw at the Atlanta Braves game years ago!

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  17. WOW! Thank you so much for writing this and to Beth for posting the link on her FB page. It brings back such great memories of my little town. I could actually hear the creak of the Roses floor. I loved getting off the bus at the Church and running to Roses for a slushy before choir practice started...you had to drink that thing so fast you'd get a brain freeze! Oh, to be able to experience that just one more time. Thanks again for the memories!

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  18. Everytime I go in McDowell's Pharmacy now I want to order an "Orangeade" !

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  19. Thank You for making me realize how special our "Little" town is. I have lived here all of my life and now to be a 35yr old mom of 2, I wish they could have seen how wonderful Scotland Neck was back in the day. People that have lived here all of their lives have got to be the most AMAZING people in the world. If I ever get a chance to leave, I will for the sake of my children, but I will always have wonderful memories of "The Neck"!!

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  20. I remember so much about that childhood..certainly the Dixie Theater, Doctor's office in the drugstore, the creaking floorboards of "The Dime Store", parking in the middle of Main, the Scout Pond, riding our bikes behind the "skeeter" truck, playing in the canal, climbing trees... so many others, but mostly I remember the freedom we had! There was always somebody's mama or Granny to hand out goodies, water, or a firm talking-to if needed...Such simple times! Thank you for writing this and allowing those of us who no longer live there, but have never really left, to remember...and smile!

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  21. This post too makes me realize, Scotland Neck is my place called home...So many memories made here, to be cherished forever!!! Brought to this small town to be raised by my grandma & grandaddy will never be forgotten...best days of my life were in Scotland neck on House Ave...Parking in the middle of the street is what scotland neck was known for!!!!! Thanks for the post and memories to never b forgotten!!

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  22. Great article,Like everyone else that lived in SN,I had a lot of great memories, the hotdog stand across from Colemans Gulf,Mike Alkazem,he was a character. Also Susan I remember you being a cheerleader, and I played a lot of basketball with your brother,those were the days. The handicapp boy is still living and still up and down the sidewalks. I left SN about 17yrs ago and go over there every week,about an hour away. SN use to be a rocking town. I use to go into Roses and look at the music album covers, especially the group the Monkeys and kept telling my mom I wanted my hair cut like that.Could type all night long about those days. Me and my twin brother walk the streets and sold the Commonwealth,lots of memories.Oh Susan I don't live far from where your parents use to live in Sunbury. Thanks for this article.
    Johnny Edwards

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  23. Heather Dickens DixonJanuary 8, 2011 at 11:06 AM

    Wow, the memories. I grew up just outside of town. My mom has run Scotland Neck Beauty Shop for many years right on Main Street close to where the Dixie Theater used to be and Pittman's. Scotland Neck will always be home. I live in Nashville NC now, but I am not from here. Great job on rekindling precious memories. I do hope that the rash of deaths will end for now in "the Neck". They will all certainly be missed.

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  24. Malone Dickens BrummJanuary 8, 2011 at 11:08 AM

    Oh Susan, I finally had the time this morning with my coffee to sit and cherish this word for word. The memories of growing up in Scotland Neck are a blessing that God has given us that no one can take away from us! From toddler tales to high school pranks parties and pals it does make me want to go back in time so much.

    As much as we want to share it with our husbands or children that never knew that life, when they think we're nuts for loving it...I'm like fine...I still have that part of my life that no one can ever take from me!

    The part about the flowers I remember picking flowers in Doro Hoboski's yard on church street (I probably spelled her last name wrong!) and Mom making me take them back to her. That was kind of town and parenting we grew up in. Yes, my Mom's flowers were beautiful and I'm blessed to have her green thumb that has been passed down for generations from her mom and my Dad's mom!

    Thank you so much for sharing your talent and memories to keep them alive for us. It is so nice to have such wonderful neighbors to grow up with and return to our roots with as we get older... I'm not going to start naming names as I know I'll leave someone out...just thinking about walking around the block and each house and each story! Priceless! Love you bunches! Malone

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  25. I enjoyed reading "Departing the Text " so much. It brought back lots of memories for me. I lived out in the country on Hwy. 125 on what we called Dr. Neville's farm for many years. Mrs. Neville bought me and my sister our senior prom dresses. We were small children when we moved to the farm ,but we loved Dr. and Mrs. Neville and she always told us when we graduated from high school she wanted to buy us our prom dress and she did. She carried me to Rocky Mount to a shop and told me to pick out what I wanted. Oh, the memories. Dr. Neville delivered my sister and my daughter...what a gap..I remember having what we called rummage sales
    beside White's Dept. store on the corner and made us a little money. That was something. I remember walking up to Hall's Drug Store when we would be visiting Grandmama and Grandaddy Coggin 's to get a 25cents chocolate nut sundae with wet walnuts..Man that makes me want one right now. I could go on and on, but I will stop. My childhood memories of Scotland Neck will never be forgotten..
    Alice Wood Cooley

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  26. How marvelous a tribute to your home town! My daughter Helen Moses pointed me to your blog! (Thanks Helen!) I grew up in the same section of NC as you, living in rural Como and attending school in Murfreesboro. You captured so well the smells and sounds and tastes of those times and places. Working at the dime store on Saturdays, scooping and weighing candy for customers behind the glassed-in counter is one of the many pleasant memories your comments triggered as I read it.

    Lucinda Howell Glover

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  27. And who can forget sneaking down the canal all the way to Libbet's house when you girls had a pajama party....then trying to dance to "This Magic Moment"!

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  28. Susan-Fabulous memories...it made me remember so much. Things like at Easter at Roses picking out
    dyed baby chicks and keeping them in the pump house at home!,great Bar-B-Que!!!!, SN Basketball and Halloween party in the High School gym,the old Sock hops my older siblings had, getting to visit with my "in town friends" and going to the Idle Hour for fries and a Coke and never to forget the Scout Pond!!! I loved that place!
    Thanks Susan for being my lifetime friend! Love ya-Martha

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  29. Susan ...Thank you so much for writing such kind words about my father's recent passing and remembering Scotland Neck when we lived in simpler and safer times. I have spent quite a bit of time at home in the past few weeks and was able to walk around the neighborhood for several days searching for all my friends' homes and remembering days gone by. Now I see homes abandoned because they cannot sale them while moving to bigger cities that can support them. I remember the scavenger hunts all the neighbors would participate in on Friday nights, going to the Idle Hour between Sunday School and Church to have fries and a soda and spending Saturday afternoons at the Dixie Theatre watching double features of Frankie and Annette on Beach Blanket Bingo and many many others. I worry about leaving my mother there all alone now in a town that has now become mostly widows, but I do find comfort in the fact that the community that is there is very "close knit" and they do watch after each other. I am fortunate that I live in a very small community and my neighbors welcomed my husband and me in as if we were their very own. I am very blessed.
    I did see your father at the visitation and he was just as tall and handsome as I remembered. I wish you and your family all the best.
    Debbie Edwards Richardson

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  30. To Debbie: Thank you so much for writing. I was sorry I could not get to your dad's service. You have been much in my thoughts and prayers.

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  31. Susan I certainly enjoyed reading about Scotland Neck! I moved there in 1964 when my father became the pastor at the First Baptist Church. Scotland Neck holds so many dear memories for me. I remember that Dr. Neville's wife would make delicious popcorn balls to hand out on Halloween night. Each Saturday I would go to McDowells and spend my entire allowance on a Coke and a Reeces cup. I have lived in Dallas, Texas for nearly forty two years. Two of those years were spent in Brazil where I served as a Journeyman with the Southern Baptist Foreign Mission Board. In all of my many travels I have never come across anyone like the folks in Scotland Neck! And you are right, no matter where I go I always run into someone with a Scotland Neck connection!

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  32. Barbara Gregory HardinApril 8, 2011 at 9:02 AM

    Susan, I love that you can put into words what so many of us remember. There are so many memories in your story, and in the resulting posts, that bring my childhood back in vivid 3-D. And I do believe strong roots make for strong trees--maybe that's how such a tiny town has sent so many wonderful people out into the bigger world. And why they keep coming home again, if only in their memories. Thanks for this gift to all lovers of small towns and roots!
    Love,
    Barbara

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  33. Hello Susan......this post just "Got me all over again" Beautiful, descriptive, just the right touch........the Wonder Years live again in my memory as I read about the world we knew growing up. Watching the big guys play football in Emmy Havards yard (until she planted the pine trees)going down Cherry Street to the bottom of the hill and the edge of the woods where there was a house with a zip line in the backyard. Would love to repost this as a permanent part of the Scotland Neck project (with your permission of course!) Douglas

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  34. I recently went over to Scotland Neck in a day the Freez was open. I decided to order my favorite sandwhich from there since I was about 12 years old......a super ham......not even sure it was on the menu and I was prepared to be disappointed. They got right to work on the sandwhiches and they were as good as I remembered (smaller of course but delicious!) Thank you GW and Teresa and the whole gang!

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  35. I love SN! Grew up on E.8th street in the mill village.Halifax Hosery Mill where my mom and dad worked until we moved to Tarboro,NC.
    Living in NE GA. now and dont get back home too often.
    Thanks for the great article!

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  36. Remember it all quite so well! They were indeed the good old days and a great place to grow up. Will be back in SN soon for a visit with Mom who still live there.

    Lee Jones

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  37. Susan....your old friend Douglas being either hyper active on this or just a busy body depending on your view of this old retired school teacher with too much energy and love for the home town..........with all that said! Please share this blog with Martha Daniel Weeks if you already haven't!

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  38. A few years later!!
    Susan, How wonderful your writing is, stimulating all of the senses in your account of our dear hometown.
    Thank you ��
    Elizabeth Everett Wood

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  39. My memories of Scotland Neck and living on 9th street go back a few years. I lived in a big White House and 9th street had a smooth surface and perfect for skating up and down drive ways. Also the Scout Pond and Dixie where I spent hours eating big lollipops on Saturday. Walking up and down Main Street with my sweet mother, shopping in Roses and Whites store. My bicycle was my best friend and I was all over town. My dad pulled the Christmas tree in the door. I’m thankful I was raised there

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  40. I grew up on the family farm just North of Scotland Neck. Graduated from SN high school in 1962. Had Lucy wells as one of my teachers. Now, at 78, I find myself frequently reliving the good ole days. Susan, I don’t exactly know how I found your blog here but I’m so thankful that I did. Your description of our beloved farm town kept me with a smile on my face. It was exactly as I remember it. God bless you.

    Rhett

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    1. Thanks Rhett. Not sure how you found it either, as I don't use this blog anymore. I write now on susanbyrumrountree.com. But thank you!

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